Endstufe: Remote

Hey Leute,
wenn es war wird, will ich meine Anlage (die derzeit im Keller liegt) wieder einbauen.
Das Radio lasse ich drinne, will aber meine 2 Endstufen (vielleicht auch nur eine, mal sehen) und den Sub einbauen.

Das Radio hat ja kein Chinch, macht ja nix (High/Low-Adapter...die heissen doch so oder???).

Aber wo bekomme ich den Remote her (also eine vom Radio geschaltete 12V die die Endstufen einschaltet)?
Oder gibt es die High/Low Adapter die mir den Ausgang anbieten?

Grüße

 

Hast du ne Freisprecheinrichtung ab Werk drinnen?
dann kannst da,wenns die original Toyota ist,den blauen Draht mit der 5A Sicherung anzapfen.

Das mit den High Low Adaptern ist recht fummelig,das kann ich dir schon sagen,da Toyota netterweisen icht gerade lange Kabelbäume hat und im weiteren das nicht gerade die flexibelsten Kabel sind,man kann schon fast von drähten sprechen.

 

Nein, die habe ich nicht drinne.
Ich dachte ich mache den High/Low Adapter zusammen mit den Endstufen in den Kofferraum und hole mir den Audio von den Hecklautsprechern.

 

Hi,

I used the following to hook up 2 Boston Acoustics amps:

On the Radio side make your own cable from:
http://members.home.nl/bobkoelewijn/AANSLUITSTEKKER%20TOYOTA%20VIA%20DIETZ.JPG
And one half of an ISO adaptor. This way the cable loom stays original!

To hook it up use this:
http://members.home.nl/bobkoelewijn/toyota.gif

Hi-Low adaptor NE-774V for David Navone (the best):
http://www.davidnavone.com/adaptor_products.htm

For the remote use the Antenna Amplifier (black, and don't forget to fuse! 0,5 amp):
http://members.home.nl/bobkoelewijn/Detail.jpg

You do need an Equalizer though! The radio output is optimized for the OEM (werk) speakers. If you're going to use another Comp set then equalize!

If you have any other questions let me know.


Bob

 

Hello,

Zitat:
To hook it up use this:
http://members.home.nl/bobkoelewijn/toyota.gif

Where did you find this shematic?
It shows, how the steering remote controlls works.

So it may be possible to build our own adapter for custom radios.
But I think this side of the problem is already solved bx Lumilux.

Zitat:
Hi-Low adaptor NE-774V for David Navone (the best):
http://www.davidnavone.com/adaptor_products.htm

Hm, they show the inside. No activ electronic parts, only some resistors and in german called "Übertrager". Not good for the sound.
Better will be a Hi-Low adaptor with active parts. (They need +12V too, so they are easy to identify)

Ist jeder dem Englischen mächtig oder soll ich noch übersetzen?

bye, ylf

 

Kann es sein, dass das "Antenne Remote" sich auf die ausfahrbaren Antennen einiger Toyota-Modelle bezieht?

Oder meinst Du was anderes mit Lenkrad-Fernbedienung?

Markus

 

Antennen Remote liefert ein 12v Zündplus für dne Motor der ausfahrenbaren Antenne,ist aber das gleiche wie ein Remote,beide sind gleich nutzbar.
2 Leitungen,ein Auslöser,nämlich die Zündung. einer schaltet das relais im radio,der andere ein + für den Antennenmotor.
Beide liefern dauerhaft Strom,das abschalten des Antennenmotors regelt die Antennenelektronik

 

Zitat:Kann es sein, dass das "Antenne Remote" sich auf die ausfahrbaren Antennen einiger Toyota-Modelle bezieht?

Oder meinst Du was anderes mit Lenkrad-Fernbedienung?

Markus

Mit Lenkrad Fernbedienung meine ich die Knöpfe, die wir da drauf haben.


bye, ylf

 

Ich sehe da nirgends den Stecker für die Lenkrad FB, nur ganz normale Toyo Radio Anschlüsse die mit der Lenkrad Fernbedienung nichts zu tun haben.
Das Lenkrad Interface gibts ja nun scheinbar,auch wenn der Preis bissl heavy ist.

 

Zitat:Zitat:Kann es sein, dass das "Antenne Remote" sich auf die ausfahrbaren Antennen einiger Toyota-Modelle bezieht?

Oder meinst Du was anderes mit Lenkrad-Fernbedienung?

Markus

Mit Lenkrad Fernbedienung meine ich die Knöpfe, die wir da drauf haben.


bye, ylf

Schon klar. Ich meinte welche der Steckverbindungen Du als Stecker für Lenkradfernbedienung identifiziert hast. Die Remote Antenne sind es ja nicht.

Markus

 

Der Stecker ist auf keinem der Bilder oder ich bin heute bissl

 

Uppps, falscher Link, mein Fehler. Sorry vielmals.

Meinte den hier:


bye, ylf

 

Ah, jetzt seh ichs auch! Doch nicht


Danke!
Markus

 

Zitat: Hm, they show the inside. No activ electronic parts, only some resistors and in german called "Übertrager". Not good for the sound.
Better will be a Hi-Low adaptor with active parts. (They need +12V too, so they are easy to identify)

bye, ylf

@ylf

Please explain why an active adaptor would be better. It would be another source for noise to come into the system!
Al you are doing is bring the voltage from the HU down to the right level for the amplifier. This requires the right quality components. Less is always better! To illustrate how a LOC (line output converter) works:
http://members.home.nl/bobkoelewijn/LOC01.GIF

The LOCs that David Navone makes are known for their quality. Don't jugde it only on appearance! Do some research on the net and you will see.
If you still don't believe me I invite you to listen to my system with High end Boston Acoustic components. http://www.bostonacoustics.com I would not have chosen these if the LOC would be terrible.


bobusa

 

Zitat:Zitat: Hm, they show the inside. No activ electronic parts, only some resistors and in german called "Übertrager". Not good for the sound.
Better will be a Hi-Low adaptor with active parts. (They need +12V too, so they are easy to identify)

bye, ylf

@ylf

Please explain why an active adaptor would be better. It would be another source for noise to come into the system!
Al you are doing is bring the voltage from the HU down to the right level for the amplifier. This requires the right quality components. Less is always better! To illustrate how a LOC (line output converter) works:
http://members.home.nl/bobkoelewijn/LOC01.GIF

The LOCs that David Navone makes are known for their quality. Don't jugde it only on appearance! Do some research on the net and you will see.
If you still don't believe me I invite you to listen to my system with High end Boston Acoustic components. http://www.bostonacoustics.com I would not have chosen these if the LOC would be terrible.


bobusa

Yes I will try it (in english for yor better understanding).
There is a prinzipial physical problem:
Transformers haven't an lienar frequency response. For example they can't transform DC-Signals. So you loose bass and other frequencies. And they have allways a resonance frequence, wich only means that there are some frequncies better transformed than other.
At the other side, the noise of an audio amplifier is nowadays no problem any longer. It was a problem from twenty years or more ago. (There are still much rules in the HiFi scene, most based on formaly problems with tube-amplifiers, wich are passed by the actually technic, many years ago. But HiFi-Freaks still belive in these old rules, wich are like a religion.
Sorry for this comment.)

The name "High/Low-Adapter" also cause a mistake by amateurs in understandig it's function. It don't bring down the Voltage, it brings it up! Because it's an High Power Speaker Output to Low Power Preamplifier Input adapter. The Voltage, wich the Speakers at the HU are driven at normal Volume is much less than the Voltage a the Cinch Cable/Input at the same Volume. The secound job a High/Low Adaptor has to do, is to convert the symmetrical "Speaker Signal" from the bridged amplifier of the HU output into a asymmetrical "Cinch Signal" . (for explanation: a symmetrical signal has "signal +" and "signal -", a asymmetrical signal has "signal" and "ground")
Both can be solved with a simple difference amplifier by an OP.

I hope, noone will be offend by my point of view as an electronic technican.

bye, ylf

 

@ylf
Thanks for the explanation. Please keep in mind that the LOCs today are much better the in the past.
They still have a bad name because of this.
I get a max. of 9.5V of signal which is flat between 20Hz and 20KHz with no noise whatsoever due to the full transformer isolation of this LOC. My frequency respons curve is (keeping the car's acoustics in mind) pretty straight after adjusting it with an equalizer (due to the OEM deck freq. compensation for the OEM speakers, which I replaced with Bostons).
I'm pretty much a Hifi freak and I'm happy with this setup.
A good High/Low adaptor wil give you a clean undistorted signal with a flat freq. response.

Bob